5/16/2023 0 Comments Motorbike ramp![]() If you really want to keep your truck as is, and want to put your ride in the back of it. something about the distributor being where the fuel pump should be and having it stall out every time he got into water, and a power-takeoff winch. Then again, I remember him hating that Jeep. and I'm starting to sound like my father. Trucks these days are just getting stupid. I have pictures of an old Jeep pickup loaded like you wouldn't believe, and I could get into the back without a step, even as a little kid. I mean, that's a big price to pay for being able to change the oil without a jack.Īnd, don't give me any stories about needing it for getting logs or something. But, really, what's the point of having a truck that you can't get into and out of the back without killing yourself. but then that K-car was surprisingly good off-road. I've probably been farther off-road in my old K-car than most of those things will ever get. Some of the trucks I see around here, factory direct stuff, are plain silly, stepladder silly. I mean, why the freak are trucks getting so high? Zombie Apocalypse or something? People need to run over undead bodies without the rearend snagging? I just don't get it. Either that, or put smaller wheels on your truck. When not trailering, take the same scooter mount and put it in your trailer hitch like it was designed to. Needed ramp will be about 2' long, and the racks often come with them. You can get really cheap trailer hitch mounting bumper-racks that would be easy to mount on the frame. Then get a longer tow-hitch and mount the scooter cross-wise on the trailer A-frame at the front. Bike and ramps both loaded into my bed diagonally and the tail gate closes.Ĭlick to expand.10' of ramp? Mine's about 18". I bought the cheapest harbor freight ramps (2 per). ![]() I used a piece of wood (2"x16"圆') for a long time with no hardware. That's is one hell of a ramp and for cheap too. I think a strap ( back to the truck to keep it from sliding out) would be very important as the wood can skid out on the pavement. Finally some steel plate screwed into matting face to limit wear and compression of the wood. You can also cut the joint where the two board meet at an angle (not 90) so that the board fold out to more than (or less) than 180 degrees (arched). You can beef up the joint by insuring to use solid hardware for the hinges, over sized lag bolts or through bolt it with counter sunk bolt head. The two halves of the boards pressing against each other might be able to support the load of the bike. If I was to make a folding ramp out of 2 pieces of wood, I would try to join them with two long hinges on the bottom. Bike and ramps both loaded into my bed diagonally and the tail gate closes. ![]() Lets here your golden idea of a wood based ramp a tightwad like me can build and run my scoot up in the truck.Ĭlick to expand.That's is one hell of a ramp and for cheap too. I've googled ramp pictures until I've seen most of whats out there. Yes, I've seen every brand of ramp hardware, seen none that fold. When you add the cost of large hinges to the ramp board hardware ends your back close to buying factory ramps. I considered using boards with large strap hinges that allow them to fold in half lengthwise. Needs to fold for stowing but like a 9-10' overall length. I like the idea of buying the ends to make ramps from boards(I have a sawmill, so lumbers cheap) but also like stowing the ramp boards after use in my truck bed with my new Vespa scooter (just under 300#'s) while also towing a travel trailer. sheet metal stamped sides w/hinge and uses plywood and 4-12' lengths. I got real interested in the Utility Folding Ramp Kits, as sold in USA by Northern Tool and Fleet Farm stores in northern tier of states, made in Canada by West Steel & Tubing Products-website of same name. I am not looking for a factory made ramp recommendation. I went fill circle looking at ramps from all the websites selling fabricated aluminum, steel and ramp board hardware.
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